Sorry for the lack of posts lately. Seems the AFL final series has me a little preoccupied. I had reason to go to SUD during the week. First of all SUD was the choice because it was close to where we were not because we made a special trip there. While it wasn't terrible, there was very little that really impressed me. There was 3 of us. We had entrees and mains, no dessert, 1 bottle of wine and the bill (not cheque !) was $300.
Entrees were $21.00 each and the wait staff tell us they are designed to be shared. Ok this makes sense and sounds like a good idea, especially after seeing the entrees that went to the table next to us, we thought that sharing was a good idea. Which prompted the following conversation:
Me: "Is that the normal size of the entrees?" (inconspicuously pointing to the table next to us)
Waiter: "Yes that's right"
Me: "Looks like sharing them would be a great idea"
We ordered the white anchovy and french bean salad, the octopus, and the quail. The three dishes are served to each of the three of us individually and if we did try and share them we would have starved. I got one par-boned quail. Predominantly leg. Not one of the dishes was really shareable. And even if we wanted to this was made even more difficult by the fact that we had no plates to share anything on. The best I can say is that the braised radicchio was good.
I ordered the cotechino as a main which was meant to be boiled then grilled. Well there was no evidence of it being grilled. And for those of you that don't know cotechino it's quite a fatty Italian sausage that is the size of a salami. It is usually wrapped in muslin and boiled, then either sliced and eaten as is with horseradish, or you can grill the slices. GRILL the slices - means put them somewhere near a grill. Preferably on the grill so that it actually GRILLS. The flavour was good, the cherry tomato muck thrown over the top of it took away from the flavour and the soft polenta was obviously of some rare variety that can only be served by the teaspoon full. It would have cost them $0.80c to make - would it kill them to give me a decent portion?
My fellow diners had lamb and kingfish which just looked boring. The green salad had no dressing that I could detect and the obligatory "rosemary garlic potatoes" were like "rosemary and garlic potatoes" that every other half arsed Italian restaurant serves up.
I first went to SUD about 10 years ago I think. A couple of loud but friendly Italian boys ran it and it was fun. The food was fresh, just innovative enough to give you something new but still be familiar and the 2 times I had been there were great. Well it ain't that place any more. It's boring.
The lack of effort that went in to writing the menu up in crappy handwriting on a metal "whiteboard" with a crappy black marker that I couldn't read from 2 metres away is sadly reflected in the lack of attention in the food.
On the plus side the staff were really nice. But unfortunately that's not enough. The place isn't bad - it's just not good. if you need good Italian go somewhere else like Cecconi, da Noi. You can be bored shitless for a lot less than $300.
Friday, September 18, 2009
Friday, July 10, 2009
Jacques Reymond - and Barr'd
This is simple actually - don't waste your fucking time anywhere else. Just go to JR's. Everything is always perfect.
On the other hand there is Barr'd. A small tapas/bar thing in Ivanhoe East. I'm not entirely sure but I thought tapas was meant to invite you to eat more, relax, enjoy the conversation....let me check the definition.....
"The serving of tapas is designed to encourage conversation because people are not so focused upon eating an entire meal that is set before them."
I guess that's right. There was no way we were going to eat the entire meal that was set down before us. And that's not a good thing. There was some fish thing that failed to taste at all like fish. The dips were good - but they were either Black Swan or Chris's dips from the local supermarket. The bread that accompanied the dips was crap. Then there were these fancy chicken strips which were just mini chicken parmigiana bits. Come one guys - first of all it's not even close to being Spanish - which in my very simple mind I thought tapas should be, or at least be close to. Secondly, if I got some McCains frozen pizza strips, slapped a bit of cheese on it, some tomato sauce from a jar, fired it under the griller for a few minutes and charged $9.00 - my mother would slap me for being a prick.
Save your money - don't go to this place or places like it for 6 weeks. Then take all your shiny dollar coins to Jacques Reymond and really enjoy yourself.
On the other hand there is Barr'd. A small tapas/bar thing in Ivanhoe East. I'm not entirely sure but I thought tapas was meant to invite you to eat more, relax, enjoy the conversation....let me check the definition.....
"The serving of tapas is designed to encourage conversation because people are not so focused upon eating an entire meal that is set before them."
I guess that's right. There was no way we were going to eat the entire meal that was set down before us. And that's not a good thing. There was some fish thing that failed to taste at all like fish. The dips were good - but they were either Black Swan or Chris's dips from the local supermarket. The bread that accompanied the dips was crap. Then there were these fancy chicken strips which were just mini chicken parmigiana bits. Come one guys - first of all it's not even close to being Spanish - which in my very simple mind I thought tapas should be, or at least be close to. Secondly, if I got some McCains frozen pizza strips, slapped a bit of cheese on it, some tomato sauce from a jar, fired it under the griller for a few minutes and charged $9.00 - my mother would slap me for being a prick.
Save your money - don't go to this place or places like it for 6 weeks. Then take all your shiny dollar coins to Jacques Reymond and really enjoy yourself.
Monday, May 4, 2009
de Vine - cnr Market and Clarence - Sydney
Now as most of you that know me will already know - there's not much about Sydney that I like. As a friend of mine said once, "it's a concept full of Kodak moments". Not something that I really understand but I remember it made me laugh at the time.
Anyway - on the things food. de Vine is a fantastic restaurant on the corner of Market and Clarence streets. I am not sure how you would describe the cuisine but the owner is Austrian and I think has spent a fair bit of time in Italy - so you get things like risotto and pasta which are always outstanding.
A week or so ago I was there to send off a good friend of mine (Alex you know who you are!) and we put ourselves in the owner's hands - which as it turned out was an OUTSTANDING thing to do.
We started with John Dory which came with a crab meat salad and a very fresh herb, finely diced tomato and caper dressing. Drizzled with a light, fruity olive oil. The fish was perfectly cooked and the layers of flavours created by the moist white flesh, crispy skin, olive oil and toppings was a delight.
This was followed by a Duck Breast pate and Rabbit Rilette - I can't be sure but there was an amazing sauternes jelly served on the pate - and this was as good as I have eaten anywhere. There was ridiculous richness in the pate which just filled your mouth. The dish was accompanied by Knoll Guener Veltiner Loibenberg 2007 which is not commercially available in Australia but sourced directly by Andreas Puhar the owner. Andreas used to be the sommelier at the Bather's Pavillion. His love of wine is infectious and we are lucky that he has chosen to share it with us.
Let me stop just for a second - I have never in my life had a more perfect matching of food and wine than I had at de Vine. Every mouthful and every drop was on the verge of perfection.
Ok back to the food. My favourite disch of the night followed. First my tastebuds were treated to a Mauro Molino Barbera Vigna Gattere 2004 from Piemonte. WOW. Then came the quail and porcini mushroom risotto. Now I am partial to a good risotto and I even like to kid myself into thinking that the one I make is pretty good. But this was sensational. The intensity of the flavours, the texture of the rice, the moistness of the quail - all perfect. Perfect. Perfect. Get it? It was perfect. Sorry for the crappy photo below.

Veal Involtini - and while this was moist and the taste was spot on - the only thing that I think could have improved it was a little more colour. The veal was graet but I like to see the effect of the pan. We ended the night with creme brulee which for me is always a bit of a tester for restaurants. It's not a really difficult dish but when it's done really well - there isn't much better. And these guys nailed it. Great vanilla tone, rich but not cloying.
I think this is a great place - however we may have been a little blessed by being able to get a special menu made up for us. But as an overall eperience it's great. And if you put yourselves in the hands of your host Andreas for food and wine - you will be happy.
eat well.
Anyway - on the things food. de Vine is a fantastic restaurant on the corner of Market and Clarence streets. I am not sure how you would describe the cuisine but the owner is Austrian and I think has spent a fair bit of time in Italy - so you get things like risotto and pasta which are always outstanding.
A week or so ago I was there to send off a good friend of mine (Alex you know who you are!) and we put ourselves in the owner's hands - which as it turned out was an OUTSTANDING thing to do.
We started with John Dory which came with a crab meat salad and a very fresh herb, finely diced tomato and caper dressing. Drizzled with a light, fruity olive oil. The fish was perfectly cooked and the layers of flavours created by the moist white flesh, crispy skin, olive oil and toppings was a delight.
This was followed by a Duck Breast pate and Rabbit Rilette - I can't be sure but there was an amazing sauternes jelly served on the pate - and this was as good as I have eaten anywhere. There was ridiculous richness in the pate which just filled your mouth. The dish was accompanied by Knoll Guener Veltiner Loibenberg 2007 which is not commercially available in Australia but sourced directly by Andreas Puhar the owner. Andreas used to be the sommelier at the Bather's Pavillion. His love of wine is infectious and we are lucky that he has chosen to share it with us.
Let me stop just for a second - I have never in my life had a more perfect matching of food and wine than I had at de Vine. Every mouthful and every drop was on the verge of perfection.
Ok back to the food. My favourite disch of the night followed. First my tastebuds were treated to a Mauro Molino Barbera Vigna Gattere 2004 from Piemonte. WOW. Then came the quail and porcini mushroom risotto. Now I am partial to a good risotto and I even like to kid myself into thinking that the one I make is pretty good. But this was sensational. The intensity of the flavours, the texture of the rice, the moistness of the quail - all perfect. Perfect. Perfect. Get it? It was perfect. Sorry for the crappy photo below.

Veal Involtini - and while this was moist and the taste was spot on - the only thing that I think could have improved it was a little more colour. The veal was graet but I like to see the effect of the pan. We ended the night with creme brulee which for me is always a bit of a tester for restaurants. It's not a really difficult dish but when it's done really well - there isn't much better. And these guys nailed it. Great vanilla tone, rich but not cloying.
I think this is a great place - however we may have been a little blessed by being able to get a special menu made up for us. But as an overall eperience it's great. And if you put yourselves in the hands of your host Andreas for food and wine - you will be happy.
eat well.
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Bistro Vue
This is without a doubt one of my favourites at the moment. For lots of reasons. Last Saturday night we dined at Bistro Vue (the bistro behind Vue de Monde) and it was probably our 4th or 5th time there. On every occasion the service and food has been outstanding. Except for one small grip - more of that later.
Entrees were a delicate cepe omelette for me and my wife had the smoked salmon which is gorgeously presented. Probably 8 very thin slices of smoked salmon which I think they do themselves. On the side creme fraiche, some thinly diced white onion and tiny capers. The treat was the house baked brioche which sits in the middle of the wooden plate in the terracotta pot it is just baked in. All of it sensational
Main for me was pork with 4 cheeses - which while delicious was not what I expected. Slowly roasted pork topped with what I thought was a crust of 4 cheeses but was a soft airy pasty like substance. Honestly - has good as it was it would have been better if it was a crust rather than a spongey cheese matter. Makes me wonder how they cooked it ???
No room for dessert this time but in recent visits we have had the pleasure of the chocolate souffle and the tarte tatin - both of which are outstanding.
One criticism. In at least 4 visits over 18 months, the menu has not noticably changed. There is a daily special which always sounds good. But come on guys. If I'm paying $200 for dinner and like it enough to come back then maybe some seasonal dishes. I don't mind the strong favourites staying on the menu, actually I find it comforting. But to replace at most 3 dishes on a 25+ dish menu over 18 months is just taking the piss.
Service is always good - even though I am getting tired of getting served by pasty private school prats who think putting on a shitty french accent somehow adds to the experience.
I committed to going back because we like it - however when I ring to book a table I will be asking if the menu has changed and if it hasn't I will probably go to Bistro Guillaume for French.
Definitely worth going if you haven't been there. Overall it was about $195 which included 3 glasses of VC and 2 glasses of French white. Wine list is pretty good BTW. Here is a link to their website and you can download the menu here. They also have an express business lunch which looks good.
Having been to the bistro a few times and the restaurant twice - I would honestly go to the bistro over the restaurant. But that's just me.
Enjoy!
Entrees were a delicate cepe omelette for me and my wife had the smoked salmon which is gorgeously presented. Probably 8 very thin slices of smoked salmon which I think they do themselves. On the side creme fraiche, some thinly diced white onion and tiny capers. The treat was the house baked brioche which sits in the middle of the wooden plate in the terracotta pot it is just baked in. All of it sensational
Main for me was pork with 4 cheeses - which while delicious was not what I expected. Slowly roasted pork topped with what I thought was a crust of 4 cheeses but was a soft airy pasty like substance. Honestly - has good as it was it would have been better if it was a crust rather than a spongey cheese matter. Makes me wonder how they cooked it ???
No room for dessert this time but in recent visits we have had the pleasure of the chocolate souffle and the tarte tatin - both of which are outstanding.
One criticism. In at least 4 visits over 18 months, the menu has not noticably changed. There is a daily special which always sounds good. But come on guys. If I'm paying $200 for dinner and like it enough to come back then maybe some seasonal dishes. I don't mind the strong favourites staying on the menu, actually I find it comforting. But to replace at most 3 dishes on a 25+ dish menu over 18 months is just taking the piss.
Service is always good - even though I am getting tired of getting served by pasty private school prats who think putting on a shitty french accent somehow adds to the experience.
I committed to going back because we like it - however when I ring to book a table I will be asking if the menu has changed and if it hasn't I will probably go to Bistro Guillaume for French.
Definitely worth going if you haven't been there. Overall it was about $195 which included 3 glasses of VC and 2 glasses of French white. Wine list is pretty good BTW. Here is a link to their website and you can download the menu here. They also have an express business lunch which looks good.
Having been to the bistro a few times and the restaurant twice - I would honestly go to the bistro over the restaurant. But that's just me.
Enjoy!
Wednesday, April 8, 2009
Some restaurants tire me
Melbourne is spoilt for choice when it comes to restaurants. We can eat anything, from any country, any time pretty much. We have great top end restaurants and the middle layer is quite strong - and probably what makes Melbourne a better place for eating than Sydney.
But it is this middle layer that is really starting to shit me. It seems that any hack chef hang out a shingle and call himself a restaurant. Now don't get me wrong, not every restaurant needs to be a ground breaking experience. Not every restaurant has to break the rules of convention and challenge our palettes, but by the same token not every restaurant has to serve up the same crappy dishes and think they are doing us all a favour.
My pet hate of the moment, "Grilled Atlantic Salmon, served on a bed of spinach, and creamy mash". Give me a fucking break. Next time you are out - count how many times you see this dish, or subtle unimaginative versions of it written up on blackboards all over town.
What the fuck did you people learn at school ? Do you have no imagination at all. Do you all have to do this freaking salmon dish ? Do you all have to have a "Chicken Caesar salad" on the menu? Do you even know that Caesar Salad does not have chicken in it? Call it a fucking chicken salad so we all know what we are getting. I don't want to order a Caesar Salad and not get a Caesar Salad.
When did you rag-arse hacks decide that spaghetti amatriciana has olives and peppers and other shit in it? If it's not a real carbonara then don't call it a carbonara. These names have been around for years - don't serve up crap and think you can get away with it by giving it a traditional name that everybody recognises. When I see something on the menu that has a known recipe then that is what I expect to get. If you're going to change it call it "Spaghetti alla I don't have a clue", then at least we know what we are getting and how much we should trust you.
So in addition to some rather random and intermittent reviews I am going to name and shame restaurants that are showing zero imagination, or that think they are smarter than years of history.
Stay tuned and feel free to share your "favourites".
Jimmy
But it is this middle layer that is really starting to shit me. It seems that any hack chef hang out a shingle and call himself a restaurant. Now don't get me wrong, not every restaurant needs to be a ground breaking experience. Not every restaurant has to break the rules of convention and challenge our palettes, but by the same token not every restaurant has to serve up the same crappy dishes and think they are doing us all a favour.
My pet hate of the moment, "Grilled Atlantic Salmon, served on a bed of spinach, and creamy mash". Give me a fucking break. Next time you are out - count how many times you see this dish, or subtle unimaginative versions of it written up on blackboards all over town.
What the fuck did you people learn at school ? Do you have no imagination at all. Do you all have to do this freaking salmon dish ? Do you all have to have a "Chicken Caesar salad" on the menu? Do you even know that Caesar Salad does not have chicken in it? Call it a fucking chicken salad so we all know what we are getting. I don't want to order a Caesar Salad and not get a Caesar Salad.
When did you rag-arse hacks decide that spaghetti amatriciana has olives and peppers and other shit in it? If it's not a real carbonara then don't call it a carbonara. These names have been around for years - don't serve up crap and think you can get away with it by giving it a traditional name that everybody recognises. When I see something on the menu that has a known recipe then that is what I expect to get. If you're going to change it call it "Spaghetti alla I don't have a clue", then at least we know what we are getting and how much we should trust you.
So in addition to some rather random and intermittent reviews I am going to name and shame restaurants that are showing zero imagination, or that think they are smarter than years of history.
Stay tuned and feel free to share your "favourites".
Jimmy
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Yak Bar - Russell St Melbourne
Two words - DON'T BOTHER. If the greasy grilled calamari isn't enough the tinny $2.00 sound system blasting overhead will push you over the edge. The place is grimy, dark and the food not worth mentioning. $60 for a plate of grilled calamari and a pea and "prociutto' (sic) risotto. Now I don't know about you but I thought risotto was cooked rice...cooked slowly, allowed to absorb the flavours and moisture of good quality stock. It seems Yak bar have changed the definition.
Sorry but don't waste your time here.
Sorry but don't waste your time here.
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